·
Lactic acid and lactates in base
formulations
·
Natural ingredients for skin care
·
Natural ingredients for toiletries
& bodywash
·
Natural ingredients for hair care
·
Lactates are effective humectants
·
Bacteriostatic properties of lactic acid
·
Lactates increase ceramide level
Lactic acid and lactates in base formulations
Although new trends and active
compounds will always play an important role in the cosmetics industry, a good
base formulation always constitutes the crucial starting point. L(+)-lactic
acid and lactates can help the formulator achieve this goal. The main
functionalities involved in skin care, hair care and toiletries & bodywash formulations are pH-regulation and
excellent moisturizing properties.
The table below provides an overview of the most important applications with
the preferred products and functionalities.
|
Application
|
Product
|
Main functionality
|
|
Skin care
|
PURAC L(+)-lactic acid
|
pH regulator, bacteriostatic agent
|
|
PURASAL salt
of L(+)-lactic acid
|
Moisturizer, bacteriostatic agent
|
|
Toiletries
/Antiperspirants
|
PURAC L(+)-lactic acid
|
pH regulator, bacteriostatic agent
|
|
PURASALsalt
of L(+)-lactic acid
|
Moisturizer, humectant
|
|
Hair care
|
PURAC L(+)-lactic acid
|
pH regulator
|
|
PURASALsalt
of L(+)-lactic acid
|
Moisturizer
|
Additional lactate functionalities include: humectancy, bacteriostatic, increasing ceramide
level.
These many functionalities enable the formulator to produce base formulations
in a cost-effective way. The proven multi-functionality of L(+)-lactic acid and
lactates makes them ideal for use in the base formulations of a wide range of
cosmetics products.
* NOTE: the graphs on these WebPages are based on standard products: PURASAL S
60% and PURAC 90%
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Natural
ingredients for skin care
·
Moisturizing
·
pH regulation
Moisturizing
In the 1970s, J.D. Middleton studied the moisturizing properties of lactates.
Even then the use of lactates in creams was found to be very effective in the
treatment of dry hands. In a recent study, 5% PURASAL S was compared with 5%
glycerin in a body lotion. The product was applied twice daily on the lower leg
for two weeks. Both the short-term and the long-term moisturizing can be seen
from the graphs.
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Natural ingredients for toiletries
& bodywash
·
Moisturizing
·
pH regulation
Moisturizing
The effectiveness of lactates as moisturizers in rinse-off products is not
commonly known. The effects are clearly shown in clinical tests with a base
cleanser in which different levels of sodium lactate were used.
This cleanser was applied on the face and
rinsed off with water after 30 seconds. In time, the hydration of the skin was
measured. This test clearly shows that adding 3-5% PURASAL S/60 increased skin
moisturization for up to 4 hours after use.
Another clinical test (same set-up) was performed
to compare commonly used moisturizers with lactates. Frequently used
moisturizers are glycerin, sorbitol and sodium-PCA. The test proved both that
sodium and calcium lactate are comparable to glycerin and are better than
sorbitol and sodium-PCA.
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Natural ingredients for hair care
Most hair care products contain small amounts of acids, some of them organic,
in order to adjust the pH of the formulation.
Using L(+)-lactic acid for this purpose also improves the total performance of
the end product. In a salon test the effect of L(+)-lactic acid (0.5%) was
compared with that of citric acid as the pH-regulator in a shampoo:
The results of
this test clearly show that an addition of only 0.5% L(+)-lactic acid results
in a shampoo that gives the hair:
·
more body
·
improved
manageability
·
better wet feel
and good dry feel
The results of rinsing, volume and combing tests show that shampoos containing
both citric and lactic acid perform in a similar way. Lactates also possess
good moisturizing properties in rinse-off products. In the case of hair care
products this can help in preventing scalp dryness, thereby reducing the
occurrence of dry dandruff.
More info on pH regulation.
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